Moules and Rouge?

‘Moules’ or Mussels have been enjoyed by humans for thousands of years with about seventeen edible species available to enjoy; the most popular being the widely farmed Blue Mussel. There are however many questions or ‘rules’ that surround the consumption of mussels, when to enjoy, what to do with unopened mussels and with what wine?

The question of when it is best to enjoy mussels is spurred by advice that first appeared in the 1700’s to only eat them in months with the letter “R”. This rule was based on the caution to consume mollusks in summer months when waters are warmer, making it more difficult to keep them alive and fresh. Farmed mussels however are the norm today and are raised in strict controlled conditions making them available and safe to enjoy all year long.

But what about the caution about eating unopened mussels?

English food writer, Jane Grigson in her 1973 publication, Fish Book writes “Throw away any mussels that refuse to open.” however a study conducted by a fisheries biologist Nick Ruello dispels this myth, as it reported the meat of every unopened mussel he tested was safe to eat. The report indicated the best way to check the mussels is before cooking. A simple criterion is that live mussels, when in the air, will shut tightly when disturbed. Open, unresponsive mussels are dead, and must be discarded prior to cooking.

So what about the golden rule of no red wine with fish?

Scientists in Japan are reporting the first scientific explanation for one of the most widely accepted rules of thumb for pairing wine with food. The unpleasant, fishy aftertaste noticeable when consuming red wine with fish results from naturally occurring iron in red wine. Conversely since the findings indicate that iron is the key factor in the fishy after-taste of wine-seafood pairings, low-iron red wines might be a good match with seafood. Pinot Noir with salmon is the perfect example.

So where is the best place to test out this theory? My favourite place for mussels is Ravine Vineyard Bistro where you can pick from six French inspired recipes with a local flare. The range of flavours gives endless opportunities to pair various wines with the versatile mussel. ‘Piquant’ Mussels with garlic, lemon and parsley pairs perfectly with Ravine 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, while ‘Coquillage Fenouil’ with fennel and saffron screams for the 2009 Riverview Gewürztraminer. Next time though I am going to try the ‘Classique’ recipe with thyme, garlic and tomatoe concassé - it might be a perfect match with 2008 Chateau des Charmes Gamay Noir “Droit”.

Moules and Rouge anyone?